First do not dip your brass in hot lead to anneal them, it is dangerous and takes way too much time..
It is well worth the time to anneal which saves your brass. Shooting, sizing and then loading your brass causes the brass to work-harden which eventually leads to the structural death of your brass.
If wildcatting, (example when you take 308 brass and make it into 22-250 brass) you should always anneal your brass BEFORE and AFTER you change the placement (move) the shoulder or if you size up or down calibers as changing the neck dimensions of the brass this much will speed up the work-hardening (make brittle) of your brass and will shorten if not ruin your brass life before you get out of the gate.
I noticed another loader mentioned that he had several failures (spits) of his brass casing while changing them dimensionally from one caliber to another without annealing. What about the ones he did not notice that could have had internal structual damage or will split or do something worse on firing? I hope you are reading this...........everyone should learn annealing if they want to save hard to find brass or to just improve their accuracy if for no other reason your safe shooting of your loads.
One other advantage you get from fresh annealing (softening) of your brass is a constant grip of your bullet which equates to accuracy. Many long-long range shooters anneal their brass after just one loading. It saves brass, wins matches and just looks puuuurrrdddy, not to mention makes sense!
I have been annealing brass casings for many years (40+), it takes less than 20 minutes to do 100 plus 22-250 brass which makes the brass sooooooooo....... much better. I live for accurate ammo and annealing is just one more step to winning matches and/or taking your next big game animal.
I will not address the detailed operation for annealing due to liability reasons, but check on line there are several videos and articles to enlighten you! It is easy!
Rich
"One is never to old to learn, education is evolution"!