If it's the Caldwell brass catcher, you can move the attachment point forward or backward. I have an attachment for each of my ARs and I love it.
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If it's the Caldwell brass catcher, you can move the attachment point forward or backward. I have an attachment for each of my ARs and I love it.
It is the Caldwell. It was made for an AR I guess, and I will use it on that too, but I was so hoping that it would fit on my TNW 10mm carbine. .223/5.56 brass is plentiful and free for the taking at my range, 10mm isn't. I NEVER recover all my 10mm and I have nowhere near as many of them as I do .223/5.56 cases laying around my shed. Also will help on my .300 AAC upper. I need to see if I can get like two more of the bases so It would be good to go on 3 rifles without having to detach and reattach the base every time.
Finishing up processing my 9mm's. The last batch is in the tumbler and the 2nd from last batch is drying. I'll start on the 40's after Christmas.
I mainly got it for the 6.5 Grendel, but I use it on all of them... especially the 458 socom I just finished... that brass is expensive...
Do you have any federal hs 45acp for trade?
I got out the Dillon Super Swage 600, swapped it from 5.56 to .30 caliber (it was my first time to swap over and use it for .30 cal brass), and removed the crimps from some 12-15 year old PMC (Korean) .30-06 brass. This brass, which has a commercial headstamp and came in a commercial box, has crimped-in primers. The Dillon removed a nice ring of brass from the primer pocket. Some of the swaged away brass can be seen in the picture below.
Attachment 302
I need to swage some more .30-06 brass, then I may attach the .45 ACP adapter and start swaging my horde of military WCC head stamped .45 brass.
Merry Christmas!
Ed
I had a habit of overswaging when I had a 600, I sold it and got a CH4D set, and it boogered up the rims... so I just started chucking a crimp reamer in a drill and taking the crimp out that way. I’ve actually tried to over ream and it won’t do it.
Went in there and said Merry Christmas see ya next year.
Mbaker,
use the rcbs primer pocket swager, havent touched my dillon super swager since i got the rcbs, the dillon had to be adjusted for each different headstamp, which was a pain in the ass.
by the way, i did my first batch of brass in stainless media last night (really dark, almost black and crappy looking) it was Lake city 556 and converted it to 300 b/o then put it in the stainless media for 6 hours with lemi shine, all i can say is "WOW", im a believer now, the brass looks brand new, only bad part is checking to make sure the media is out of each case as they sometimes bridge in the neck
Well, Christmas is over so I started dragging out all of my 40 S&W's today. Been resizing all morning with the first few hundred in the tumbler. I prolly have a few weeks worth and You guys will prolly get tired of the samo samo. My goal for the winter is to get all of my pistol brass and my high volume rifle brass resized, tumbled and stored away or ready to load. I'm hopelessly behind!
I swaged some more .30-06. Once I size and load this batch, that will be it for my current inventory, it will all be loaded up. I also tumbled a load of .45 ACP brass. However, my HF dual barrel tumbler was not running correctly. It would rotate a bit then hang up for a few seconds and then start rotating again. The brass didn't turn out quite as shiny, but it was still clean. I will need to check the drive belt tension and see if the pulleys have worked loose. If anyone has a Lortone 33R (I think that is the model) or a Thumler's Tumbler model B he doesn't mind parting with, contact me.
Ed
I usually only run in stainless for 1.5-2 hours. 6 hours is way overkill.
Just finished building an AR in 6.5 Creedmoor and started loading for it. Just starting building an AR in 10mm. You can run the stainless for 2 hours. I am still using steel shot as I have had several trades with pins stuck in the bottom of the cases sideways and causing the decapping pins to break.
I pretty much just stopped using pins at all... the primer pockets can stay dirty, for all I care...
I’d like to build a pistol caliber upper for my SBR, but I’d need to find a magazine block that’s easily removable and still reliable...
My first 10mm build I used a Hahn block and I was very happy with it. The person that I sold the carbine to still uses it and has had no issues. I went with a Glock magazine lower this time as Grease Gun magazines are hard to find at a reasonable price.
I’ve looked at that one. Did you use the top or bottom load version?
I believe that I used the top mounting as I was afraid the bottom mounting would drop out.
Well, I haven't posted in a while although I do check in everyday.
About 2 weeks ago, I finished priming 6,000 pcs of Winchester .223 to get ready to reload. I've got a GSI loader for .223 but just haven't gotten around to setting it up, so I have that to look forward to.
I've also been finding alot of 6.5 Creedmoor brass at the range and said that when I found enough, that I was gonna get a 6.5 upper for my AR10.....then a friend of mine told me about Savage's $100.00 rebate. So instead of the $500.00 upper, I ended up getting an Axis 2 heavy barrel in 6.5 (like I needed another caliber to reload for, lol). With TT+L, out the door was $430.00 and the $100.00 off brings it down to $330.00. So I ordered a set of dies and after they came in last week, I've been prepping and priming 300 pcs of 6.5 Creedmore.
As a side note, I REALLY need to start a trade post. I've got more brass than I'll ever need. I've decided to just use Winchester brass, so everything else is gonna be up.
I’m getting tired of my eldest son taking my wife’s car, so I have a tentative deal to trade off my 6.5 Grendel AR for a truck for him. So I guess I’ll not be loading that caliber anymore. I’d rather not get rid of the rifle, but money is too tight for a new vehicle, so here I am.
Oh well, I have a few connections now that if I wanted to build a new one in the future I could do so for a lot less...