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Thread: I Totally Gave In

  1. #1
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    I Totally Gave In

    I have resisted getting an AR15 for years figuring that my Saiga .223 with it's AK type action was good enough. But somebody did offer me a complete AR with like 6 magazines, ammo, and case for a pistol I no longer wanted so I did the trade.

    As a signal of my total submission I also ordered an upper in .300 Blackout.

    Supposed to be delivered tomorrow. When the reloading dies arrive I do not know right now, Anybody got any good recipes for .300 Blackout with maybe 150 grain bullets using H414, BL-C(2), or H4895?

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    Those powders will be much too slow for 300aac. You'll be looking for more of a magnum pistol powder (H110, Win296, IMR4227, lil'gun, etc.)

    My preferred load is low 14gr range of lil'gun under a hornady 150fmj

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    I went to a gun show today and about the only powder I could find for them was H4198. I see a load using 180 grain bullets for it, and I think I even have a few. But as long as I was there, I picked up two boxes of Hornady 110 grain V-Max flat base cartridges. So now I will even have some empty cases that actually say .300 . And how hard is it to convert 5.56 cases?

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    i am not sure but i believe all you need is a case cutter (see harbor freight for a "toy" cut off wheel). to cut down some 5.56 cases and then resize in the proper dies.
    you need to check online for the correct placement for the cut. then trim to speck.

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    Dang, 30.06 to 8mm is so much easier!

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    I bought the Harbor Freight 2" Mini Chop Saw to cut down my cases. I chop them off just below the shoulder. I then form them in my sizing die and trim them to spec in a case trimmer. I recently purchase a case cutting jig from Reloadamizer on 300BlkTalk.com to speed the cutting down process. Also, I'm fooling around with the annealing process to get more life out of my converted cases.

    Also, 300BlkTalk.com has a list of good & bad brass for converting. Some brass has thicker walls than others and will require neck turning. I think LC 5.56 is all good. Fiocchi (GFL headstamp) .223 is good (its on the list, but I can independently verify the case neck thickness for this brass as I measured it at two places on a very small sample of brass using a Mitutoyo 115-313 ball micrometer). Nosler .223 brass is too thick and needs neck-turning to get it down to the appropriate thickness so that it will chamber.

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    Now you need an upper in 6.5 Grendel and 50 Beowulf. David

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    I use a harbor freight mini chop saw also, but I use a squirrel daddy jig which is most likely the same as the reloadamizer. I'll chop down a few hundred and run them through the wet tumbler without pins to remove any burrs before I size and final trim.

    I mainly use LC, WCC, FC (military and commercial), and hornady brass as that's what I get most often. I've had a few S&B slip in there and they are too thick to chamber, so they just get tossed.

    You can also buy converted brass if you don't want to fuss with it. Sage's reloading supply (Facebook or website) has pretty good prices, from what I've seen.

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    I really like my Grendel, and my blackout should be complete by the end of next month. Right now I'm at the mercy of the ATF so it's just a pistol.

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    I was thinking I am always picking up free Lake City 5.56 brass from my range, this may be a good thing for it. But I am kind of lazy, is their no kind of trim die or something out there that would work?

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    How many do you want to do? Send me up to 500 and I will convert them for you. I use the chop saw and Squirrel Daddy kit and I have a Dillon trimmer that sizes and trims. Let me know. We have traded starting with the old ABT Board so I would be happy to do it for you. David

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    I would love to have a Dillon RT1200/1500, but I doubt I'd ever be able to justify the cost of one...

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    I had to up grade to a 1500 as I finally broke the shaft on the 1200 after many, many, many years. I started with a RL 300 and when the kids were home and shooting I was running a 1050, 2 650s and a 550. Now that the kids are gone I just run 2 550s and find that they do all I need anymore.

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    Lol, I have a Lee challenger single stage and a pro1000 progressive, I can't afford Dillon presses.

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    I finally graduated to a Lee 4 hole turret auto-indexing press as a second press and thought I did good......

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    Took the AR to the range today. After warming up with about 50 rounds of .223, I pulled off the 5.56 upper and put on the .300 AAC Blackout upper. Only had forty rounds to fool with it and the only sights was a variable scope I had laying around. Fortunately I hit the paper first shot and it wasn't too far off. About 10 rounds put me dead nutz on at 50 yards. Moved it out to 100 yards but I didn't hit paper, was shooting high. I ran out of ammo before I got it totally zeroed in. Seems like a fun round, but the darned thing slam fired on me about 4 times in that 40 rounds. (all four times let loose two shots) Not sure what to do to fix it.
    Last edited by gandog56; 06-09-2016 at 07:36 PM.

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    Sounds like either really soft primers or there is something binding the firing pin in its channel

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    Factory Hornady ammo. I hope to God them primers weren't too soft!
    I said I warmed up the gun by firing off about 50 rounds of .223. Unless them messed it up I don't have a clue.
    Last edited by gandog56; 06-11-2016 at 05:47 AM.

  19. #19
    Senior Member SafetyJoe's Avatar
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    I use the harbor freight mini chop saw and the squirrel daddy kit from ebay too. I do the final trimming on the new hornady case prep center, but I used to use the lyman ezee trimmer on a cordless drill. I don't shoot many jacketed bullets because I cast my own lead projectiles that I powder coat using the simple shake n bake method the fortunecookie45lc youtube channel shows. For 300 BLK I like the 130 grain lyman 311410 mold because it doesn't use a gas check and it can also be used for my bolt action CZ 527 rifle that's in 7.62x39. The main powder I've been using for my lead bullets in 223 rem, 300 BLK, 7.62x39 and 357 magnum is IMR 4227. The lil'gun powder gets around 100 fps more velocity, but the IMR 4227 is easier to find and you wont run into any problems with over charging the cases because most published data is around 100% case capacity anyway. With cast lead bullets and free shooting range brass that I convert along with 2 cent S&B primers from cabelas the total cost per shot works out to slightly under 9 cents including taxes, but once I factor in electricity used it's probably 10 cents per shot. Not bad considering I'm getting over 1000 foot pounds kinetic energy and around 300 yards supersonic range for only 10 cents.

    6.3977 cents for powder
    2.1259 for primer
    0.38 cents for lead

    300 blk 311410 4227 yellow chart.jpg

    300 BLK 4227 311410 QuickLoad Yellow.jpg
    Last edited by SafetyJoe; 06-14-2016 at 08:48 PM.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by gandog56 View Post
    Took the AR to the range today. After warming up with about 50 rounds of .223, I pulled off the 5.56 upper and put on the .300 AAC Blackout upper. Only had forty rounds to fool with it and the only sights was a variable scope I had laying around. Fortunately I hit the paper first shot and it wasn't too far off. About 10 rounds put me dead nutz on at 50 yards. Moved it out to 100 yards but I didn't hit paper, was shooting high. I ran out of ammo before I got it totally zeroed in. Seems like a fun round, but the darned thing slam fired on me about 4 times in that 40 rounds. (all four times let loose two shots) Not sure what to do to fix it.
    use primers #41, they are a bit thicker on the cup so a firing pin needs to hit hard to set it off.

    just one of many sources

    https://reloadingunlimited.com/produ...rifle-primers/


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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check