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Thread: So, What You Doing On The Bench Today?

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  1. #1
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    I’m finding about 60% of the 223 and all of the 5.56 is crimped. I used to use a super swage, but I’m too lazy to sort by headstamp and readjust it every time, so I was getting a lot of overswaged cases. Now I just ream the crimps out with a cheap Lyman bit and a cordless drill. It’s faster and seems more consistent.

  2. #2
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    Back to what are you doing on the bench. I just finished resizing over 1000 38 Super cases. These were more difficult to size than most pistol brass so I lubed them.

  3. #3
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    I have had 2 different swaging tools and a bunch of different cutters. I keep going back to the cordless drill and 45º carbide countersink. I hate all the 223 ammo that has crimped primers. I've gotten where I scrap most of it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by lightman View Post
    I have had 2 different swaging tools and a bunch of different cutters. I keep going back to the cordless drill and 45º carbide countersink. I hate all the 223 ammo that has crimped primers. I've gotten where I scrap most of it.
    What's wrong with swaging it out? While it adds one more step it will get you lots of brass. Plus you only have to do it once. You can use anything from a finely ground screwdriver to a swage die set. I use the RCBS swage die set.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gandog56 View Post
    What's wrong with swaging it out? While it adds one more step it will get you lots of brass. Plus you only have to do it once. You can use anything from a finely ground screwdriver to a swage die set. I use the RCBS swage die set.
    I guess there are so many different degrees of crimps that I have never totally been satisfied with swaging. And 223 brass is so plentiful that I don't have to mess with crimped stuff. I've swaged my share of it and I agree its not a big deal. The military brass like LC and WCC work well but the FC stuff wears out so quickly its hardly seems worth the work.

  6. #6
    Brass Trader SafetyJoe's Avatar
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    RCBS makes a decent crimp reamer because it has an over travel stop. I sort my 556 lake city brass to be converted into 300 blk and I use the dillon super swage on those, but I still double check each one with the ballistic tools primer pocket go / no go gauge and if one is not quite done I'll ream it to get it that last little bit. I also started reaming some S&B and herter's HS revolver brass just because those pockets seem to always be very tight.

    1.jpg

  7. #7
    Administrator DukeInFlorida's Avatar
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    really,
    never had any sort of issue with cleaning primer pockets . Or, should I say, never any problems without cleaning them.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DukeInFlorida View Post
    really,
    never had any sort of issue with cleaning primer pockets . Or, should I say, never any problems without cleaning them.

    Well, I DO have some 30 year old .38 cases that have been literally reloaded hundreds of times. Them soot build ups can really build up, you hear where I'm coming from?

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    Quote Originally Posted by gandog56 View Post
    Well, I DO have some 30 year old .38 cases that have been literally reloaded hundreds of times. Them soot build ups can really build up, you hear where I'm coming from?
    I have the soot buildup in 44 magnum cases primer pockets after a couple firings in my revolver.

  10. #10
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    I don't know, I use the cheapest primers possible, usually Wolf or Tula. They leave HARD sooty carbon in the flashholes. When I splurge on like Winchester or CCI it's not so bad.

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    Had a front come through and the temps went from mid to high 90's to low to mid 80's and the humidity went way down. So, me and a buddy set up the smelting rig and melted around 400# of reclaimed shot. Ended up with 384 Lyman style ingots and 12 ingots from a bread stick mold. It was still hot and a cold beer was really good after we finished and put everything away. Shoulda waited for winter but its done! Now, to find that Aleve!

  12. #12
    Administrator DukeInFlorida's Avatar
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    Don't lose sight of the fact that when you deprime the cases, the primer knock out pin goes through the flash hole, and completely cleans that out. ALL of the flame will reach the powder. Like I said, I never have any issues, and never clean the primer pockets.

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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by DukeInFlorida View Post
    Don't lose sight of the fact that when you deprime the cases, the primer knock out pin goes through the flash hole, and completely cleans that out. ALL of the flame will reach the powder. Like I said, I never have any issues, and never clean the primer pockets.
    Well, I have had problems fully seating them from soot built up on the sides and the bottom of the case around the flashhole. I have crushed many a primer before I got a wet rotary tumbler.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by gandog56 View Post
    Well, I have had problems fully seating them from soot built up on the sides and the bottom of the case around the flashhole. I have crushed many a primer before I got a wet rotary tumbler.
    That was my problem as well in my 44 magnum. I think build up in the primer pocket caused a lot of issues.

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    Counting brass for a swap. Continuing to swap boxes with .40 cal and 357 SIG hand loads. Ordered more plastic boxes.

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    Not much, also counting brass for a swap. Decapping some other stuff. Just hiding out in the loading room.

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    Packaged up and mailed some brass for a trade. Packaged up and mailed a shell holder for a trade. Started getting the BBQ grill, fish cooker and electric clay target thrower ready for the Dove Hunters that will start arriving any minute now. Looking forward to a fun weekend.

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    Just before I got sick I bought me a Lee Loaded in 12 gauge to start reloading shotshells again.

  19. #19
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    Sorted and decapped some brass that I just picked up. Cleaned a Remington 1100 that I was lucky enough to get dirty over the weekend, Dove hunting. Prolly have a nap after while, the last 4 4am mornings are starting to wear on me.

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    I think I have about 250 round since the last cleaning on my 930, I’m curious how long I can go between cleanings before it starts messing up.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check