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Thread: So, What You Doing On The Bench Today?

  1. #481
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    At least $50.00, without the galvanized screws.

  2. #482
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    Quote Originally Posted by SafetyJoe View Post
    Oh, yeah you could sell those jigs for $500 I bet. The difference between converting brass for 300 blk is that I usually convert several thousand and want a system that's easy and fast. The jig I use was only $15 on ebay and aside from having to tape a beer bottle top to the bottom on one side it's been great. I actually converted enough brass to wear out a few of the blades on the chop saw.
    I have cut close to 10k now and I'm still on my first blade... how many are you cutting in a sitting to go through a blade?

  3. #483
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    Mat, is the new cutting jig you are using the one with bearing to hold in place, about $30-$35. I was looking at their 22 TCM jig and have been thinking about upgrading the 300 Blackout also.

  4. #484
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mbaker78 View Post
    I have cut close to 10k now and I'm still on my first blade... how many are you cutting in a sitting to go through a blade?
    The spare blades I buy at harbor freight wear out faster than 10k rds. They will still cut when dull, but they are prone to binding and tearing the last edge of the brass while cutting through so I just swap out the blades so that wont happen and so I can cut faster. With a dull blade I have to cut 3 or 4 times slower otherwise the brass gets torn. I haven't counted the brass, but I guess it's around 5k and then I change the blade. Basically whenever it starts binding and tearing the brass I change the blade.

  5. #485
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    Quote Originally Posted by Happyguy View Post
    Mat, is the new cutting jig you are using the one with bearing to hold in place, about $30-$35. I was looking at their 22 TCM jig and have been thinking about upgrading the 300 Blackout also.

    Nope, it's just 3D printed plastic.

    When I cut with the saw I'm not slow or gentle. I basically just tap down on the saw and it slices through in one quick motion... I've also cut off the little safety stopper.

    I tried cutting slow and gentle like I was taught in shop class, but the impatient gorilla in me won out and I started zipping through them, it's fine because I cut them long so I can trim out the rough edges after I size.

  6. #486
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    I sized, primed, and expanded the case mouths on a small batch of 9mm (~80 cases). I set-up the seater die but ran out of time to do any more adjusting beyond initial set-up.

  7. #487
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    Setup my Le cast turret for 308 cat sneeze loads but didn't get the OAL set yet. I'll start with 3.5 grains of TiteGroup and work up till I get good groups with the LeeTL314-90-SWC sized to .311.

  8. #488
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    I used that bullet to make 300 blk loads ranging from 900 fps up to 1900 fps using a similar powder, but never found anything to be accurate. If you want a light weight lead bullet for 30 cal that has decent accuracy try the 130 grain lyman 311410

    Quote Originally Posted by 62chevy View Post
    Setup my Le cast turret for 308 cat sneeze loads but didn't get the OAL set yet. I'll start with 3.5 grains of TiteGroup and work up till I get good groups with the LeeTL314-90-SWC sized to .311.

  9. #489
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    Went to the range yesterday, so I will begin processing all the brass I shot and cleaning the guns today.

  10. #490
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    Quote Originally Posted by SafetyJoe View Post
    I used that bullet to make 300 blk loads ranging from 900 fps up to 1900 fps using a similar powder, but never found anything to be accurate. If you want a light weight lead bullet for 30 cal that has decent accuracy try the 130 grain lyman 311410
    I have a 100 of these cast and powder coated and will see how they do at 25 yards. if it doesn't work out then I'll get a different mold but most of the good guys on Cast Boolits said this bullet should work just fine. time will tell.

  11. #491
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    Quote Originally Posted by 62chevy View Post
    I have a 100 of these cast and powder coated and will see how they do at 25 yards. if it doesn't work out then I'll get a different mold but most of the good guys on Cast Boolits said this bullet should work just fine. time will tell.
    That's interesting to hear that others were able to get decent accuracy from that bullet. What is the OAL you are going to load them at?

  12. #492
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    Quote Originally Posted by SafetyJoe View Post
    That's interesting to hear that others were able to get decent accuracy from that bullet. What is the OAL you are going to load them at?
    I like to cover half the top bearing surface. Have it wrote down in the reloading room. Loaded them twice last year but my grandson keep plinking with them before I could test 'em.

  13. #493
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    I'm still working on 30-06 loads for my M1s. One keg of H4895 gone now I'm working on my two kegs of IMR 4064. I got a 1000 done and then I got a pretty good deal on more brass on another forum so I'm loading another 450. What am going to do with all of this ammo.

    IMG_1941.jpg

  14. #494
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    That's a lot of .30-06! I need to make up some M1 Garand rounds, too.

    I did manage to load a few .300 Blackout rounds and I made a baffle for my powder measure out of a Dr. Pepper can. I hope to try it out tomorrow. I think a flat sheet of slightly thicker gauge aluminum might hold its shape better in the measure reservoir, but the soda can was easy to work with.

  15. #495
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hostile79 View Post
    I'm still working on 30-06 loads for my M1s. One keg of H4895 gone now I'm working on my two kegs of IMR 4064. I got a 1000 done and then I got a pretty good deal on more brass on another forum so I'm loading another 450. What am going to do with all of this ammo.

    IMG_1941.jpg
    Dont ask me, I am still trying to shoot off the bucket of Greek HXP surplus rounds I bought a couple years ago.

  16. #496
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    So today I figure what the heck, it is too hard to hold my hand cutting wheel while converting .223/5.56 brass to .300 AAC Blackout. So I hike on down to the local Harbor Freight and pick me up a 2 in. Mini Bench Top Cut-Off Saw. It was great, even my jig fit into the thing. So I am cutting away and everything is going fine, when all of a sudden, it starts spitting out ground up black plastic all over. Turn the thing off, nothing seems bad, the saw blade is rotating fine, turn it back on, and withing one second it starts spitting out the plastic again, even though I wasn't cutting anything at that point. I figure what the hell, glad I paid the 7 bucks for 1 year replacement, I'll take it back tomorrow. SO I pull out the hand cutter and finish up the cutting. Then I pull out my Ryobi drill to trim the length with my Lee lock stud cutter, the drill quits. Thought, well OK, battery probably dead. Put in a newly charged battery, nothing. Drill gone bye-bye. Go to my computer to price a new one, computer is frozen. Black screen, with a curser that moves, but no icons to click on. Restart the computer. Go to ebay, them Ryobis are NOT cheap are not cheap! (Was a Xmas present to me, I never bought one) At this point all I want to do is cower in my bed and touch nothing else today. I seem to have the King Dungas touch......everything I touch today turns to sh**. So I have a half a bucket of fully converted .300 AAC, and half a bucket of all cut but untrimmed brass.

  17. #497
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    I tried out my homemade powder measure baffle this afternoon while loading some more .300 Blackout. It did the job by relieving powder throw variations caused by the volume of powder in the hopper changing with every throw. The fit is not great, though, and I think I may make one out of slightly thicker aluminum in the future. But, for the time being, this one works as it should.

  18. #498
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    Pull the side covers off the saw, chances are there's something stuck in there and it's tearing up the belt or the cover it's self, possibly a neck hopped in there.

  19. #499
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    Got tired of always ordering more ground corn cob media because I toss it when it gets black. So yesterday I got in a 40 pound bag of the stuff I ordered online. It is ground up way finer than the usual stuff I buy, so I am sort of hoping it does not stick in the primer flash holes any more. First load is in to see if it still cleans as well, too.

  20. #500
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    I've heard that white rice is good for tumbling, haven't tried it yet, but a 25-40lb bag is fairly cheap at Costco or sams club.

    Loaded my last 250 bullets for 40s&w, 135gr nobler sporting JHPs over HS-6, chopped down another 250pcs of 5.56 for 300aac, just need to size and trim them now.

    Haven't had time to do much other than that as I just added another puppy to my pack, this one makes #4. 8 month old GSD female. She spent last night at the vet after getting the bob barker treatment
    Last edited by Mbaker78; 03-21-2017 at 12:04 PM.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check